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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.